SVrider Forum

1. Disconnect the battery

2.Unplug the ECM connectors & find the orange/red wire; use your multimeter on ohms to check for continuity between the terminal on the ECM connector and the opposite end at the ignition connector plug (Main harness side). This should be near zero ohms of course. (If open, look for broken wire) Also check between the orange/red and the battery -ve cable - this should read open circuit. (If short, then look for trapped wire)

3. Connect your test leads to measure resistance between the red and orange/yellow wires of the harness going to the key-switch - this should be 'open' with switch off and **** ohms with switch on. If NOT **** ohms, then you have bad ignition switch.

4. If you do read **** ohms, reconnect everything including the battery: set test meter to now read volts instead of ohms; read between the orange/red (orange/yellow on switch side) and the battery -ve terminal - you should measure ~ 6.5V.

Einlöten eines **** Ohm Widerstands am dünnen orange-roten Kabel (zur ECU) zum dicken orangen Kabel (15, geschaltet Plus) am grünen Stecker. Das vom Zündschloss kommende dünne orange-roten Kabel muss dann aber vor dem grünen Stecker durchtrennt und abisoliert werden.

Silversurfer hat geschrieben: ↑

21.02.2019 18:15

Hallo,

Wie Du selbst schreibst: "Kann es sein, dass der Widerstand nur manchmal zu hoch/zu niedrig ist?"
Nicht das ich das Problem selber kenne, aber für mich hört sich das nach Kontaktschwierigkeiten im Zündschloss an.
Mopped steht länger: Korrsosion an den Schaltkontakten --> Widerstand zu hoch --> Mopped startet nicht.
Man schaltet ein paar Mal hin und her: Kontaktflächen reiben aneinander --> Widerstand sinkt --> Mopped startet wieder.
Also entweder Zündschloss mal aufmachen und nachschauen, oder "quick & dirty" (und auf eigene Gefahr) Kontaktspray reinhauen (wenn man weiß wo).

Gruß
Silversurfer

superhelmut hat geschrieben: ↑

29.03.2019 12:12

Ich würde das mit dem Kontaktspray wohl probieren, aber bevor ich mir nen Wolf suche.....
Wo ist da ein Zugang?

There is an internal *** ohm resistor inside the ignition switch which is used as an anti-theft feature (to avoid simple bypass).
When key-switch is turned on, one pole of the ignition switch connects the 12V battery power from the red/black wire on the ignition harness via the ***ohm resistor to an output on the Orange/Red wire.
That orange/red wire feeds into the ECM to provide the signal to enable the operation.
Not to be overly complex, but there is an additional resistor inisde the ECM that (along with the *** ohm in the ignition) forms a resistor divider: so the voltage on the orange/red should be approximately *** V or so.

To troubleshoot:
1. Disconnect the battery
2.Unplug the ECM connectors & find the orange/red wire; use your multimeter on ohms to check for continuity between the terminal on the ECM connector and the opposite end at the ignition connector plug (Main harness side). This should be near zero ohms of course. (If open, look for broken wire)
Also check between the orange/red and the battery -ve cable - this should read open circuit. (If short, then look for trapped wire)
3. Connect your test leads to measure resistance between the red and orange/yellow wires of the harness going to the key-switch - this should be 'open' with switch off and *** ohms with switch on. If NOT *** ohms, then you have bad ignition switch.
4. If you do read *** ohms, reconnect everything including the battery: set test meter to now read volts instead of ohms; read between the orange/red (orange/yellow on switch side) and the battery -ve terminal - you should measure ~ 6.5V.

Zum Beheben:
Einlöten eines *** Ohm Widerstands am dünnen orange-roten Kabel (zur ECU) zum dicken orangen Kabel (15, geschaltet Plus) am grünen Stecker. Das vom Zündschloss kommende dünne orange-roten Kabel muss dann aber vor dem grünen Stecker durchtrennt und abisoliert werden.